Expedition Course

This program is a must for any first-time participant to an expedition but also for people with experience but want to have more background on the specific techniques and environment related to climbing above 6,000 metres as well as what we consider to be the basics of mountaineering. The course will include a mix of presentations and practical exercises in the mountain as well as a bivouac night on the glacier. You will have the opportunity to climb with an oxygen mask (without additional oxygen). We believe that it is better to discover the feel of this black rubber piece of equipment at 4,000 meters rather than at 7,500 meters…

The course takes place in the wonderful surrounding of Mont-Blanc and is run by a team of UIAGM mountain guides with the participation of a specialist in mountain medicine.

Day 1

Gear review

• What to wear and when
• How to organise and set-up your back-pack
• Set up of the harness for fixed line climbing

Crampon technique

Ladder crossing

• Crevasse
• Wall

Crevasse rescue

Technical briefings

• Physical training program
• Mental preparation
• Managing efforts in altitude
• Risk awareness

Day 2

Fixed line technique with high altitude shoes

• Set up
• Climbing up
• Going across a relay
• Traverse
• Abseiling

Bivouac on glacier at 3600 m

Day 3

Technical climb at 4000m with high altitude shoes and oxygen mask (no oxygen in the mask)

Medical briefing

• Physiology of altitude
• Impact of supplemental oxygen
• Altitude sickness
• Frostbites (origin, how to prevent, field treatment)
• First aid (equipment / basics)
• Hyperbaric bag
• Psychology of expedition climbing

Review of the overall program

The course starts at 9:00 on Friday in Chamonix (France) and ends up at the same place at 3pm on Sunday.

Costs include:

• Cable car pass
• 1 night accommodation at a mountain hut on a B&B basis + lunch and dinner
• 1 night accommodation in a shared tent for the bivouac night
• 3 meals a day either at the refuge / dehydrated food cooked at the bivouac
• IFMGA guides (1 for 2 participants ratio) and specialists speakers for the technical briefings
• Necessary equipment for the course (tent, cooking set, ladder, fixed lines, avalanche beacon)
• Set of quality photos/films taken by our guides

Costs Exclude:

• Personal expenses at the mountain hut (e.g. drinks)
• Personal climbing equipment (list provided in the brochure)
• Personal medical, travel & evacuation insurance (mandatory)